Climbing Mount Kosciuszko must be on every Australians bucket list to do atleast once in their life. Well, the second time for me anyway. There are harder hikes, and higher mountains, but to say you have stood on the top of Australia’s highest mountain is a pilgrimage not to be missed.
For us we have tried to do the walk a couple of times in the last few years but events prevented us. The first time was cancelled due to the fires that sweapt through a large part of NSW, followed by COVID forcing us in to lockdown.
But luckily for us, the weather gods were on our side, so it was a quick pack of the camper for three nights camping in Kosciuszko National Park.
Top of the world…. well Australia any way
While many people take the simpler up and back road from Charloette Pass or Thredbo, we chose the slightly longer, and much more scenic, 24km Main Range Walk departing from Charlotte’s Pass.
Deciding the take a few days off from work we avoided the easter crowds so had much of the walk to ourselves.
Heading in an anti-clockwise direction, the track makes its way down a well laid path to the Snowy River where it is a simple rock-hop to the other side. We were walking in early April so there was not much snow melt but I am sure when the river is running you may need to get ready for a brisk wade across.
Once you cross the Snowy river, the track slowly climbs past alpine meadows and tarns. Unfortunately many of the wildflowers had finished blooming but the shades of green against the sky blue still kept my camera busy.
The track makes its way down over Carruther’s Creek before rising again to the ridge overlooking Blue Lake. Here there is a short detour to the Blue Lake lookout, and slightly further on to the Lake itself. This is only a short detour but well worth it - although i am not really convinced of it being blue in comparison to the amazing blue lakes of Canada, but nice never the less.
From here, the path becomes more rustic with laid stones preventing you from getting lost or wondering off onto the sensative high alpine meadows.
We did not have time to take a detour to Mount Twynam (the third highest mountain in Australia) as we were keen to bag the highest, so we gave it a miss. As you reach Carruthers Peak, the layers of blue ranges disapears into the distance.
From Carruthers Peak, the trail joins onto a metal boardwalk further preventing erosion and trail damage. While these are not very natural, they are somewhat photographically beautiful as they wind their way over the hills.
Eventually you come to Albina Lake and probably the highlight of the walk. What better place to rest and have lunch.
From Lake Albina the track changes back to a stony path as you get your first glimpses of Mount Kosciusko, with small ants standing on its summit. Now dont get excited thinking you will be seeing any grand peak or rocky spire. It is more a hump than a mountain.
The track finally comes to an intersection with the main trail from Thredbo where you turn right and join the crowds making their way to the summit as the track winds around the final metres to the top.
While 100,000 people summit Mount Kosciuszko each year, we were lucky to visit out of holidays with only 5 or 6 people on top when we arrived. Luckily it did not take long for us to have the roof of Australia to ourselves.
Mount Kosciuszko used to be spelled Mount Kosciusko (without the z) but i think it should have been renamed as Wikipedia pronounces it - KOZ-ee-OS-koh. At 2,228 metres (7,310 ft) above sea level it hardley a mountain in world comparison, but it is our little hill and we are proud of it.
Like all good ozi legends, there is a rumour that the adjacent Mount Townsend is the highest mountain but the names were swapped rather re-educate the populace of the name of the highest mountain - but just a rumour i promise.
Having bagged one of the ‘7 summits’ i think i will just be happy knowing i have seen and not climbed three others, Denali, Kilimanjaro and Everest. From the summit, back down you pass 2 landmarks. First is Australia’s highest toilet - I had to at least give it a go. Then you pass Seamans Hut. This is named after Laurie Seaman who died with his partner, Evan Hayes, in a ski trip in 1928. This hut was erected in 1929 for the use of those who might need emergency shelter in the mountains. It was renovated in 1938 due to fire.
From hear you follow the service road which is a tedious 6km trudge back to charloette Pass. The only real scenic point is the Snowy River crossing - (no rock hopping this time with a wide bridge) until you reach the snow gums, a sign that you are almost back to Charloette Pass.
The next day we chose a much easier stroll along the Snowy river. While many people come here to try their luck at a bit of fly fishing, we chose a more leisurely walk.
We spent three days camped at Threadbo Diggings campsite. This was a bit of a drive to get to Charloette’s Pass, but it is small and well set up, an ideal spot to star gaze by the fire.
Thanks Gabe and John for a lovely few days and here is a photo of the friend you made on the trip :)
I only want one sip of the wine I promise!