August 2016: Outback Pubs

What do you do when your almost at Birdsville looking forward to the Birdsville Races when the skies open up and the rivers flood turning dusty roads in to impenetrable mud and rivers?  You spend the week exploring the Outback Hotels.

Mulga Creek Hotel, BYROCK

If you get tired of driving on the straight road north of Nygan in NSW there is always the Mulga Creek Hotel at Byrock to stop and have a refreshing ale. however you need to keep your eyes open as there nothing here apart from the hotel and general store and a few ramshackle empty buildings.  Not only do they do a great cold beer, the meals will make any truck driver happy and they have camping out the back. 

South Western Hotel, Toompine

This outback hotel is located somewhere between nothing and scrub.  More precisely it is on the road between Quilpie and Thargomindah in Queensland.  

This pub with no town once boasted two hotels, a watch maker, post office, blacksmith, jail and 130 opal miners. Built in 1893 it serviced the Cob and Co coaches and now relies on the local shearers and travelling nomads to survive.

Royal Hotel, Eromanga

It always amazes me that a pub in the middle of the outback can still have the grace of calling itself the royal. Established in 1885, the towns claim to fame is being the furthest town from the sea. So i guess that meant we drank in the pub the furtherest from the sea.  Like many outback pubs now, the Royal survives on workers from the local mining that is being carried out in the area.

Western Star Hotel, Windorah

What is usually a sleepy pub comes alive once a year for the Windorah Yabby Races at the Western Star Hotel. Unfortunately this was to be as close to Birdsville we would get due to the closure of the road due to the rains.

Yaraka Hotel, YARAKA

Located halfway between Windorah and Blackall, this pub was once the end of the rail line. Its hosts, Jerry Gimblett (pictured) and her husband Chris are the most friendly couple making travellers feel welcome. Having lived in the area several years ago (including being the Principal of the 1 classroom Yaraka School) they returned in 2014 to run the hotel.  While the town may appear to be slowly disappearing, Jerry and Chris are doing what they can to revive this slice of outback history.  If you want to experience an authentic slice of the outback with the most amazing hospitality then you must stop at Yaraka.

Hebel Hotel, Hebel

Heading along the Castlereagh Hwy between Lightning Ridge and Dirranbandi you come across the small NSW/Qld border town of Hebel. While there is not much to the town there is the ubiquitous hotel. Opening in 1894 as a Cobb & Co changing station and later operated as a hotel it still features the original hitching rail for the horses. The area is also rumoured that Ned Kelly's brother Dan and fellow Kelly gang member Steve Hart lived here under an alias.

While we did not hitch our horse here we definitely stopped for a drink.

Glengarry 'Hilton' Hotel, Glengarry

Lightening ridge has its fare share of unique characters but if you really want to experience opal mining country take the detour to Grawin, Glengarry, Sheepyard, and Mulga Rush opal fields.

This moonscape of mines, tin shacks, and rusty vehicles also has the 'Hilton'. While not as luxurious as the famous brand, Glengarry Hilton Hotel is made from shipping containers and an assortment of wrought iron sheds. The pub is also a place to meet the local miners who have escaped the rat race of the city to spend their days underground searching for the elusive black opal. It does not get much more outback than this.

club in the scrub

not far from the Hilton is the Garwin Opal Miners Sport and Recreation Club, also known as The Club in the Scrub'.  Not only can you get a cold beer and food here but you can have a hit of golf on the dirt 9 hole golf course.  But be warned - your ball may end up disappearing down one of the many open mines rather than the green hole. 

The Sheepyard inn

I get a sense that there is not much to do in the opal mines apart from drink.  The Sheepyard Inn is another eclectic tin shed in the heart of the opal fields. While the beers are good, they do a mean pie better than any city bakery.

Hotel Armatree, Armatree

While many travel along the Castlereagh Highway stopping at the towns along the way sometimes it is worth taking a short detour to see what you can find.  Hotel Armatree is one such place, only a few kilometres from the main road this 1929 pub has lovingly been restored by its current owners, Ash & Lib Walker.  

The Termo', coonamble

Sometimes it pays to get of the main street and look for the local.  While we could have stopped at the larger Commercial Hotel the local service station attendant directed us down a back street of Coonamble to the Terminus hotel, better known as 'The Termo'. Opposite the old railway station and silos you wont find any travelling grey nomads in this pub. 

Other pubs on our journey

We ate and drank in numerous other pubs on our 4500km journey through outback NSW and Queensland.  While we didn't make it to Birdsville we managed to experience the true essence of the outback sharing stories with locals over a cold ale.

August 2016: Outback NSW & Queensland

July 2016: Mutawintji National Park, NSW

What was meant to be a trip to Mungo National Park resulted in some last minutes changes due to road closures.  So pointing the car north we made our way to Mutawintji National Park in outback NSW.  with magnificent watering holes, red gorges and amazing traditional rock carvings and art work, not a bad back up plan to have.

I never get bored of getting up early to watch the sun rise over the outback.

A few more amazing vistas

This is why Mutawintji means place of green grass and watering holes

Taking time to walk in the wild

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Back at Camp

July 2016: Paika Station, NSW

July saw us head to Mungo National Park for a week of clear skies and cool nights.  Well that was the plan until the rain decided other things.

Reaching Balranald quick last minute changes were discussed with the decision to head to an outback station called Paika.  This amazing property has so many stories to tell.  But for now you can just be amazed by some of the scenery on the property.

 

It's amazing to think this was once a dry paddock.  for 100 years was diverted from the original wetland to create grazing land. Due to the dedication of the owner of Paika Station this has been finally restored to its former state as a birdlife magnet in the outback.

The Station is also an amazing place to star gaze.

Our accomodation in the old shearers quarter

Relics of Paika

We also spent some time visiting the Yanga Woolshed and homestead which is part of the Yanga National Park.

May 2016: Newnes, NSW

Time to pack the camper trailer again and head away for the weekend.  This time a trip close to Sydney at a place called Newnes in Wollemi National Park.  The campground can be busy and full of some not so pleasant campers but at this time of year it is not that bad.

The campsite is set in the valley surrounded by an amazing escarpment. Don't be fooled by the old hotel building as you wont find any beer here any more.

 

From here it is a quick drive then walk around the abandoned shale mine.

We chose Newnes as a base to explore the Glow worm caves and do some 4WDing following Blackfellows Hand Trail, the upper section of the Spanish Steps (didn't go the whole way) through to the State Forest.

Heading home I thought I would give the trailer a bit of a work out.

Finishing of the trip with a quick stop at the old Zig Zag railway before heading home.

Out of Petrol

I was fortunate enough again to have another publication in the April 2016 edition of 4WD Touring Australia.   This time something different with an 8 page spread dedicated just to my photos.  

If you have explored my website you will have come across a collection of photos of old outback servos and their relics.  I have had a long fascination with these once important road side stops which now stand in decay having been replaced with the super highway centres.  Below is a small collection to these images and a link to the larger gallery. 

April 2016: Booti Booti National Park, NSW

You would not think it was April with warm weather making it perfect for a weekend escape up the coast to Booti Booti National Park. The name comes from "butibuti", the local Worimi Aboriginal word meaning"plenty of honey".  

The National Park has the best of both worlds.  On one side is Seven Mile Beach (I love how many long beaches are named 7 mile when they are not really that long) and the sheltered Wallis Lake on the other. 

Wallis Lake is a perfect spot for a paddle especially when there is little wind making it easy going.

It is amazingly shallow with the ability to walk several hundred metres out in to the centre of the lake yet still only be knee deep in water.  A perfect spot for the kids to play safely.

Not surprisingly, I did manage to get out early for some sunrise shooting.

The camp site is called the Ruins, a large flat grassy area next to the beach.  While I could imagine it could get crowded in the middle of summer, at this time of year there were approx 3o campers spaced far enough apart to not intrude on each other.  There are reasonably good facilities with basic amenities and BBQ.  However the camping fee is getting reasonable steep at $16 per adult and $8 per child per night plus park entry fee (quickly adds up for a family).

Despite this well worth a visit for those that have not been here.

April 2016: Ocean Travels

Now this trip does not really fit with our other travels throughout this great country but I am going to make an exception this time as it was a special occasion.  I took my wife on a surprise 3 night cruise from Sydney out in to the blue waters of the Pacific for our 22nd wedding anniversary.

Yes, we spent a lot of time relaxing and doing not much of anything.

March 2016: East Beach NSW

A weekend away with great friends.  Yes i know it is unusual but for once I did not take many photos. I had a little play with the gopro.

We also had a 21st Birthday to celebrate.

OK I did manage to sneak out in the middle of the night to try my hand at astro photography.  Still something I am learning.  Thats the great thing about photography - you never stop learning something new.

A few morning shots.  Not much happening in the sky so added to my 'Shell Project'.

FEBRUARY 2016: Murrurundi, NSW - King of the Ranges

February saw a quick pack of the boots and Akubra as we headed to the King of the Ranges Stockman Challenge at Murrurundi in the Hunter Valley, NSW.  A weekend of horsemanship, dogs, cattle mustering and good old country charm.

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THE BIG LAP - Taking the first Step

This is a story that ran in the February 2016 Issue of 4WD Touring Australia.  It provides a little inspiration to take the first step to an epic adventure that you will remember for the rest of your life.

Having recently returned from an extended trip from Sydney to Darwin the conversations with friends often started with one of the following: ‘I wish I could do that’.  ‘If only I could, but I don’t have enough money”.  “You are so lucky.”

 The thought of taking 3 months, 6 months or a year off to travel Australia seems to many, an impossible idea.  For others it is something that must wait until retirement.  But retirement is getting further from our reach.  Waiting until the right time may mean there is no time left.

 In reality it is not about being lucky. It all begins by taking the first step. This does not need to feel like a leap of a cliff. Rethink it, like it’s the first step on a leisurely walk. With each step you will get closer to your goal and by the time you get there it wont have seemed that hard. The first step for us was picking a date 3 years away. A date is the only thing you need to remain fixed on.  Every thing else can be flexible.

Time is the second consideration. The continent is not something that you can rush.  To breath in the desert air, soak in the tropical stream or lie on the white sands, you need time.  For some the longer 12 month lap may be ideal.  This comes with extra challenges but none that have not been overcome by the procession of Ozi’s circling this great country. For others it is a matter or taking what time you can.  For us the option required us to break the lap up in to 3 month journeys.

Kids are often a reason for not taking an extended trip.  They are too young.  They are too old. They will drive me nuts. But they will drive you nuts at home so why not do it somewhere amazing.  You may be surprised that they will even voluntarily put down their devices and connect to the real world.

Like any goal, you don’t have to achieve it straight away.  Start thinking about where you want to go.  What do the kids want to see?  What does the wife/husband/partner want to do?  Remember this is about everyone.  Many start with a map and a bucket list of places to explore.  The lesson however, is you don’t want to spend your entire trip behind the wheel.  A 100km may go quickly on a freeway but the same distance can take all day on an outback track.  Have a plan but leave time for the unexpected.

From here work out your motivation. What will keep your eye on the goal? Is it pictures? A map of your trip?  What ever it is, make it visual. With your date set and an idea of where you are going, your journey has begun.  You have taken the first step.

The journey from here is all about research. The web is full of resources and blogs of other individuals, couples and families that have made the plunge. There are many decisions that need to be made.  What vehicle will we take?  Will we get a camper trailer, tent or caravan? Do I plan to stick to the main roads or venture in to the remote tracks? There is no correct answer and often you will need to decide what is right for you.

Armed with research the next is practice. Don’t let your level of experience put you off.  A 4WD course provided either by a club or company is invaluable.  There is nothing better than practicing removing a spike from a tyre and plugging it in the comfort of a group than doing it for the first time on the side of a desert track with your nervous partner overlooking your shoulder and no one for 100s of km.

There is some other wisdom that is universal irrespective of the length of time or who is going.

1.     You will not need the amount of clothes and stuff you think.  It is amazing how the same shirt does not smell much after 4 days compared to home.

2.     You will learn to be good at tetris as you pack and repack each time you move camp.

3.     Hide some cash somewhere for an emergency.  On the last day if you still have it buy yourself some champagne to celebrate.

4.     You may never come back to a place.  Some experiences are worth every cent so where appropriate don’t put off that boat trip or helicopter flight (see point 5).

5.     The most memorable experiences are often the free ones.  Camping under a thousand stars in the desert is priceless.

6.     Balance.  While 12 months roughing it in the bush with no toilets may be your idea of fun it may not be your partners. Mix up your travel with national parks, road side stops, caravan parks and the occasional treat in a hotel.

7.     You will develop a newfound appreciation for the price of fuel.

8.     Service your trailer and/or car before you go (see point 9).

9.     You will need to prepare for mechanical issues but the thing that actually breaks is the thing you didn’t bring a spare for (see point 10).

10.  Cable ties and fencing wire are essential tools on the road.

11.  Take one spare tyre and you will need two.  Take two and you will need three (see point 9).

12.  It will not all be smooth sailing (see above).  But the challenges and misadventure will be the things you talk about most when you get back.

13.  At some point mosquitoes, flies and midges will drive you mad.

14.  You will join the traveller’s code where you will share where you have come from, what the conditions were like, what to do and what to avoid.

15.  You will meet the most amazing people.

16.  You will be the envy of your friends.

There are many more things to prepare you for the trip, but as the date arrives there will always be the feeling of being unprepared.  The reality however is the true lessons of life and travel can only be leant by actually getting out there and hitting the road. And what begins as a date on a wall becomes the fist step in a journey that will leave memories that will last a lifetime.  So what’s your date?

 

 

TRAVEL GUIDE: Family Friendly Fraser

This is a story that ran in the January 2016 Issue of 4WD Touring Australia.  Not really a travel diary but covers some of the must do sites to see and things to think about when travelling to Fraser with Kids.

When deciding on a travel destination with the family there are many considerations that are not covered in the usual travel brochure or 4WD article.  Pondering a map my wife always asks the essential 4WD question -“Does it have toilets for the children?”

With that in mind Fraser Island should be on every families must do list.  Fraser has everything to offer mum or dad who love hitting the sandy tracks and open beaches, especially if you want to practice using those maxtrax.  But Fraser also has just as much excitement for the kids.

One of the most popular spots is the sparkling Lake McKenzie.  This unique lake has been perfectly designed for parents to wallow in the water while the kids spend hours in a bathtub the size of several football fields. The benefit for those with young children is that the car park is only a very short walk to the lake. But with popularity comes crowds.  If you want to have some space its worth walking a little further from the car park or arrive first thing in the morning.

There are many other lakes on the island such as Lake Wabby. However, If you decide to venture here be ready for a harder walk with children. The 2km trek from the beach is testing as it passes over Hammerstone Sandblow. During the summer the sand become scorching hot so be prepared to carry an extra load on your back through soft sand or consider coming back when they are older.

As far as popularity for families go, Eli Creek would be number one on the kids wish list.  Don’t forget to take something for them to float down the shallow creek amongst banksia and pandanus plants.  The good news for those with young children is the creek is waist deep making it a safe option for the younger ones. It is also one of the most popular places to relax with 4wd’s, sun shelters, eskies and a cacophony of colour lining the water edge.

Swimming in the ocean however is not recommended. The western side of the island is popular for fisherman, which invariably means there is the higher order predator likely to be lurking in the water. With no lifeguards and unpredictable surf the safer option is definitely any one of the 40 perched lakes for worry free parenting. Alternatively a drive north to Champagne Pools allows the kids to swim in the rock pools amongst a variety of fish caught in the receding tide.

While the western part of the Island is where many of us head, a trip to the eastern side should be on the list.  Here you can take the kids for a long walk along Kingfisher Bay without the fear of a 4WD barrelling along the sand.

For families, Kingfisher Resort is also worth considering with their pool and self-contained units making costs (although not as cheap as camping) more bearable.  But even if you are not staying at Kingfisher Resort, there is another pool that is available for day use.

While Fraser is a lot about 4WDing, getting the kids out of the car is a must. There are several easy boardwalks and tracks that allow the young ones to experience the wonders of the island up close. The island is a living textbook and following the Wanggoolba Creek board walk or gazing up at the satinay trees that disappear in to the heavens will have them transfixed.

One challenge when travelling with children is the dreaded question “daaaad, I need to go”.  The good news is that most day-use areas on Fraser Island have toilets along with basic picnic facilities. It is advisable to get a National Parks Map and be aware that the further north you go the fewer toilets there are. If you are camping along the main beach it is a good idea to bring a portable toilet.  If you are staying at one of the formal camp grounds some even have the luxury of hot showers.  Just remember to bring plenty of gold coins.  

The other advantage of staying in the designated camp ground with young ones is that some of these, such as Central Station and Dundaburra, are fenced to prevent dingoes accessing camp. Your children may not know the risks dingoes pose so it is essential that you explain the dangers.  A good option is to provide the children whistles that are hung around their neck which is great to not only scare away any threat but also a life saver if they get lost.

Speaking of dangerous creatures, sandflies can annoy the best of us. There is nothing worse than a complaining itching child. While prevention is preferred this is easier said than done especially if you do not want to put DEET into the pristine lakes. The priority is to cover up in the afternoon and evening. There are numerous remedies to deal with the itch, from mother’s wives tales to medical creams. My advice - take them all. 

As many who travel with kids know, they are guaranteed to come down with some sickness or injury.  There is no pharmacy or resident doctor on the island so it is essential that you bring along your full medicine kit.

There are a myriad of other activities do with the kids from fishing to whale watching. Maheno Wreck is well worth stoping but keep your kids close as many don’t head the slow speed limit near the wreck . Where ever you go don’t forget to ensure the kids are always wearing a seatbelt when driving.  Inland tracks get very bumpy and there are washouts and other hazards on the main beach.  

 

With all this in mind not only can the kids have a great time but parents will also be able to enjoy the fun of 4WDing rather than dealing with grouchy irritable terrors.  And they may even have a great laugh as you are being snatched out of a sand trap by a fellow traveller.   See - it has something for everyone.

DECEMBER 2015: Gold Coast and Brooms Head

With another year over it was time to take a break and head north to see the family.  While the camera ventured along there were only a few times it managed to escape out of the camera bag. Despite this I managed to click off some images.

The Gold Coast has many faces from the popularity of the waterways to the madness of main beach.

Well - may be they were not all there at the same time but it was still busy on the waterway.

Not far from the main drag is the Spit.  At the end is the 800m long sand pumping jetty popular for fishos and travelling photographers such as me.

While we had a couple of days of rain, the rest was typical Queensland sunshine.  Perfect for the beach.

We spent a day up in the hinterlands at Springbook National Park.  With the recent rains the waterfalls were pumping.  The most famous is the Natural Bridge with the waterfall entering a cave before travelling down stream.  While it is popular for the photographer it is a tricky thing to capture due to the dark areas of the cave and the bright light from the waterfall and outside.  This needed some extra work combining multiple exposures to get it right.

The rest of the Park also has some other interesting walks and waterfalls.  We only had a couple of hours but could have spent all day exploring this place.  May be next time.

 

Leaving the gold Coast we headed home with an overnight stop at Brooms Head with some great friends.  I managed to sneak of in the morning to get some coastal shots

These were taken the night before leaving.  It was blowing an absolute gale so struggled to keep the camera still in the strong winds.  

NOVEMBER 2015: Port Stephens, NSW (in the Rain)

A weekend away to the coast is meant to be full of sunshine, surfing and cold beers.  Unfortunately I seemed to choose the only weekend that contained a mixture of rain, lightening, wind and more rain.  With no chance of sunrise or star photos I had to make do with the grey overcast weather.  It could be worse.  I could have been at work!

The area of Port Stephens has some interesting jetties from the new to the ancient.

If you look closely you can see a couple of lightening strikes. 

"A pelicans bill can hold more than its belly can"

With no sunrise I had to make do with some interesting rocks overlooking Shoal Bay.

There were also some interesting rock formations on the coast which is in the Tomaree National Park.

The 4WD track in to Tomaree National Park.  Short but fun.


September 2015: Mt Buller

With the twins in the National Club Championships for gymnastics needing to be picked up in Bendigo what better excuse to pack the camper and head south.  

The trip started with a slow meander south taking the more off the path route via Kootamundra and Narrandera.  Its great getting off the motorway and following some of the smaller roads.  Unfortunately many of these are by-passed by travellers so all that remains are the closed businesses. This is a part of our country that will one day be gone with little reminder of the thriving community that once existed.

The first night we camped at Berembed Weir.  This is a nice spot by  the Murrumbidgee River.  Heading  from Junee to Narrandera you pass through some lovely little towns such as Ganmain and Matong and take a right.  This takes you to Old Narrandera Rd and not far from the intersection is a dirt track that goes for approx 12 km. You cross the weir and their is plenty of shaded spots (although the ground is a bit bumpy). While you are a long way from anything there is a clean flushing toilet at the picnic area a few hundred metres away which my daughter was thankful for.

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The great thing about travelling through this part of the country at this time of the year is the Canola Fields.  This sea of yellow with a blue sky is amazing.

From here we made our way to Deniliquin for lunch. While I didnt take any photos I will definitely return here one year for the Deni Ute Muster which I only missed by a couple of weeks.

Arriving at Bendigo it was really only a day to pick up the kids from the Gymnastics comp and head east for a few days camping. Again it looks like I will have to save Bendigo for another trip.

From Bendigo another lovely drive through the cutest of country towns with some classic buildings.  Rushworth was a definite favourite and a great spot for lunch at the local baker. Unlike me I didn't try to photograph this place, instead just soaked up the character enjoying the moment.  I did however stop for an old run down bush hut somewhere outside Euroa.  While time has got the better of this building it is a classic reminder of the past.

We made it to Mansfield for an over night stop.  Again a lovely town with an amazing backdrop. 

The next day we headed to Sheep Yard Flat. While in the peak season I hear it is a place to avoid we had most of it to ourselves at this time of the year.

We spent the day exploring some of the trails and creeks with a few short walks in between.  Unfortunately many of the tracks further up to the huts were still closed (they dont open until later in October).  As before it seems I am going to have to make another trip back here. 

Back at camp we had a good look at Fry's Hut (built in the 1930's).  Still amazes me that someone lived and prospected here at the time. While I was keen to take some night time star trails over the hut the full moon got the better of me so again - seems i need to make another trip back.

The next day we decided to get up early and head up to Mount Buller to play in the snow. As it was the very end of the ski season there was no intention to ski.......  Well thats what I thought until we got up there.

It turned out the weekend we were here was a cold snap in Eastern Australia.  This brought freezing conditions for one last blow of the snow making machines but also a flurry of natural snow as well. 

Despite the screams of pain from the bank balance we thought 'what the heck' so sold the left kidney and hired the gear for the day.  Both the kids and us had a great time.

not bad for the last weekend of the ski season.

with so many things we missed it looks like another trip is in order but not a bad way to spend a week.

AUGUST 2015: Tamworth, NSW

I had the pleasure of going to Tamworth for a few days to watch my daughter in a gymnastics competition.  So what better thing to do with my spare time than escape to the country to take some photos.  What was amazing is that I didn't even get one of the iconic Golden Guitar.  Looks like i may have to venture back for the country music festival one day. 

One iconic structure that i am always fascinated with is the windmill, an essential tool that has allowed these areas to survive.

There was no opportunity for any sunrise shots this trip, nor did I manage to get any night star trails due to the full moon.  So I had to settle on one sunset.  And it was rather a nice in the end as well.

JULY 2015: Coolah Tops National Park, NSW

This story was published in the December 2015 issue of 4WD Touring Australia

Rugged up like a polar explorer the warmth from the crackling fire only manages to travel a few feet before the cold night air sucks its energy into the darkness.  As the temperature dips below freezing you begin to realise it is warmer in your camper fridge than outside.  But with the cold also comes a camping experience that invigorates not only the body, but also the mind.

With news bulletins warning – “the most powerful cold front to cross Australia’s southeast in years will hit this weekend” we knew we were in for a chilly time camping.  And we knew it would be even colder as we were heading to a place called COOLah Tops.

Coolah Tops is located 380 km north-west of Sydney on a narrow plateau, where the Great Divide, Liverpool and Warrumbungle Ranges meet. Passing through the towns of Mudgee and Gulgong the expanse of the Liverpool Plains quickly erase the memories of the big city left behind. Tall buildings make way for a world where the planet appears to be 90% sky and 10% green rolling paddocks. And it is here where you get a true feeling of being ‘beyond the black stump’.

But more than being just a figurative term, the town of Coolah holds claim to being the home of the black stump. The local Aboriginal Gamilaraay people are rumoured to have called the area ‘Weetalibah-Wallangan’, meaning, ‘the place where the fire went out and left a burnt stump’. In 1826 Governor Darling formalised the land boundaries that passed through the centre of a property known as ‘Black Stump Run’. Today, a rest area and replica stump mark the historic location.

While claims over the black stump continue to be fiercely fought between country towns the Black Stump Inn, a 2 storey hotel built in 1928, has that country charm that pulls one in for a more peaceful cool ale.  But with the temperature in the single digits, instead we make our way to the Coolah Bakery to warm up on freshly made pies and sausage rolls. 50 metres further on we leave town with the book end Coolah Valley Hotel similarly trying to beckon us in for a beer.

40km out of Coolah, the road leaves the flat plains.  Here it becomes a dirt track winding its way up the plateau, green grasslands either side providing nourishment to both the cattle and thousands of wild goats that roam the hills.

As we climb higher and the temperature drops further, we get to a small marker that signifies Pandoras Pass.  In 1823 the botanist and explorer Allan Cunningham found this important crossing through the mountain range opening up a northern path to the Liverpool Plains. This early traveller not only helped the Liverpool Plains become one of our most valuable farmlands, but he opened up access to Coolah Tops for travellers that followed such as us.

(A few images of the car getting a taste of the fresh country air)

Leaving the pass and farmland behind we continue along the track and enter a large Eucalypt forest, its tall trees preventing the winter sun, now low in the horizon, from penetrating. The reference to the black stump is also well evident as we enter the forest. A recent fire has converted the silvertop stringy bark and forest ribbon gum trunks in to vertical liquorish coloured stripes.  Despite the fire there is still plentiful wood to ensure that a campfire tonight will keep the chills at bay. The good news is that this is one of the few National Parks that allow you to collect firewood.

There are several campsites in the park including Cox's Creek Falls and the Pines.  But we make our way further on to the Barrack's camping area and set up camp and a warm fire before the short afternoon light disappears leaving behind the glacial mountain air. 

One sign that it gets cold here is the fact that Coolah Tops is home to some majestic snow gums, the largest in the east of the park. Its also home to some very friendly wildlife with the red-necked wallabies and eastern grey kangaroos watching on with bemusements as we huddle around the fire.

The next morning we reluctantly leave the warmth of our sleeping bags and head out and explore the park. With 30km of easy dirt tracks there are plenty of options.  A short distance from the Barracks camping area we meander along a path that weaves amongst a prehistoric stand of grass trees (Xanthorrhoea glauca). With some over 300 years old, these three metre ancient giants stand like soldiers adorned with large fuzzy hats.

A short drive and another small walk takes us to Norfolk Falls.  While only a trickle due to the dry winter, the waterfall must come alive after a heavy rain, the water cascading deep in to the valley below.

Following another fire trail to Pinnacles Road Lookout we are immediately greeted with stunning views out across the plains to the Warrumbungles and Mt Kaputar.  At the eastern end Breeza Lookout offers similar impressive views perched 1200 metres above the plains.

We spend the next few days exploring the remainder of the Park including Bracken's Hut built in 1937 and the Gemini Loop Track which provides access to an old sleeper cutter's hut. These relics provide a glimpse of a previous time when the imposing forest was seen as a resource to harvest rather than protect. Luckily the National Park now conserves this unique part of country NSW. 

There is one opportunity to slip the car in to 4WD and that is Jemmy's Creek 4WD Trail.  This starts at Breeza Lookout and descends in to the valley to join up with Pembroke Road 20 km west of Merriwa.  Unfortunately for us the track was closed for maintenance but this will just give us another good reason to return here one day. 

The thought of winter camping may not be everyone’s ideal holiday. For us however, there is nothing better than escaping the pages of the city street directory into the Australian bush. And if you really want to go ‘beyond the black stump’ you could not find a better place than Coolah Tops. 

Not a bad way to spend a few days in the great ozi bush.

MAY 2015: Melbourne, VIC.

I love travelling the expanses of the outback or along the coast.  But sometimes I need a dose of big city to enliven the senses.  While I was in Melbourne for work I managed to explore the lanes and streets in an attempt to capture the essence of this place. Click on any of the images below to see them larger.

 

APRIL 2015: Corryong, NSW - The Man from Snowy River

“There was movement at the station, for the word had passed around
That the colt from old Regret had got away
And had joined the wild bush horses - he was worth a thousand pound,
So all the cracks had gathered to the fray.”

This trip saw us head south to Corryong near the Victorian, NSW border to experience the Man from Snowy River Festival. It was three days of horse riding, country music, poetry, cattle dogs, bush hats, tractors and everything else country. The below story was covered in the July 2015 Issue of 4WD touring Australia.

The wild stallions eyes bulge, desperately seeking an escape route from the chute.   The gate opens.  Dust flies as the heaving mass lurches one way then pitches the next trying to remove the whip-cracking cowboy from its back. 8 seconds does not seem long but it only takes a split second for the cowboy to be tossed into the air and come crashing to earth.

This is the scene from a great weekend away at Corryong, a small country town in the foothills of the Snowy Mountains halfway between Albury and Cooma.

Most Australian can recite the famous lines “There was movement at the station, for the word had passed around that the colt from old Regret had got away”. But not many know the story about Jack Riley who was the head stockman at Tom Groggin Station, a pastoral run of 8000 ha on the upper Murray.  He is said to have recounted the story of his pursuit of the colt that escaped which “Banjo” Paterson later penned the now famous poem “The Man from Snowy River”.

What started out as a poem, and then later a classic Australian movie, has now become an annual challenge between stockmen who compete to be crowned the best horseman of the snowies. This involves six demanding horse events that test the best of both horse and man. It culminates in the top 10 riders competing in the ‘Paterson’s Brumby Catch’ and ‘Kosciusko Stocksaddle Buckjump!’ to determine the winner.

he Man from Snowy River Festival is three days of horse and rodeo riding, poetry, art, utes and general high country life. Nights are filled with country music as a sea of Akubra’s and RM William boots dance in the dust. One of the most popular events is the re-enactment of the poem and a celebration of the life of Jack Riley with the echo’s of horses hooves filling the mountain valley.

We have stayed in some amazing camp sites over the years but this is definitely the first time I have camped on a golf course on the 13th fairway.  The township opens its doors to visitors, which includes allowing the thousands of campers who descend on the town to set up on the adjacent course. If you wish to stay further afield there are numerous great campsites that are dotted along the striking Murray River.

The Country music keeps every one going through the night.

For those that want to explore further afield, Corryong is also a great starting point to explore either the Snowy Mountains or Burrowa-Pine Mountain National Park located near by.  The Park is known for its impressive Bluff Waterfalls which cascade in to the valley as well as Pine Mountain which is one large rock said to be one and a half times as big as Uluru.  It also has a network of 4WD tracks through the park.  Alternatively, take a rod and try your luck catching one of the brown trout or elusive Murray Cod that call this part of the world home.

Many of us have Craig’s Hut, built as a set for The Man From Snowy River film, on their list of must do weekend escapes.  However if you really want a true high country experience make some time to go to the Man from Snowy River Festival at Corryong to marvel at the skills of these stockman who’s lives are so intertwined with the land. And while you are there you could even try your luck at ridding a bucking horse.

The scenery in the surrounding countryside is also magic

It was a great escape from the big smoke.  

APRIL 2015: Bilawi, NSW

What better way to spend Easter than a few days on the farm with friends enjoying a BBQ by the river.

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